REVIEW

An Appetite for Art
("Orlando Magazine" March 1996)

By Mike Radigan

Who would've known that some of life's most basic physiological needs--food and drink could be considered as art! Just as a painter blends his paint to create a work of art that's of suitable quality for display at the Winter Park Sidewalk Art Festival, restaurateurs and partners Dexter Richardson and Adrian Mann (with Charles Baumis and John Hoffmeister) craft a creative dining experience at Dexter's of Winter Park to satisfy the most discriminating palates. The duo must be doing something right. The small, tight-tabled and trendy Winter Park eatery quickly earned a reputation as one of those places "to see and be seen" when it opened in 1988. Today, on any given day, Dexter's is packed and noisy, a situation that quickly translates into words every restaurateur yearns to hear--"very busy."

Their success has resulted in the opening of their second gastronomic "exhibit," Dexter's of Thornton Park at 808 E. Washington St., last December. Since then, Richardson and Mann have continued to parade award-winning contestants before the judging public, from Chicken Napoleon to Dexter's Pressed Duck Sandwich and their trademark sweet potato chips. Chef Mann's Eggplant Napoleon-thinly sliced eggplant layered with spinach, ricotta and provolone-is served over a not-too sweet marinara sauce. The dish is a mixture of two artistic genres married into one: lighter, but equally flavorful entree that features the best ofpitta toppings without the typically heavy crust. That leaves room for Mann's popular Caesar salad, framed on the plate with his homemade dressing, which is as close to a tableside-prepared dressing as you can get in a bottle (Dexter's Caesar salad dressing is available at both locations).

But Dexter's loyal following didn't happen by accident. Just as the Winter Park Sidewalk Art Festival consistently attracts perennial art festival-goers to town to soak in some of the nation's best art, Dexter's has established a reputation for consistency--and a constantly changing menu. While the main menu is updated annually, the list of 10 or so added cafe entrees is revised monthly to take advantage of market-fresh ingredients and satisfy customers' appetites for variety. That leaves roughly 40 entrees from which to choose, including a dozen or so selections on the main menu, plus all the salads and sandwiches available on seven types of bread. Add to that the 50 cheeses you can enjoy with Dexter's 31 daily wine-by-the-glass selections--and it comes as no surprise that this establishment actually began as a wine and cheese shop 10 years ago.

Richardson originally sketched the business as a retail wine store. He then added sandwiches, wine tastings and, finally, Mann-a classically trained chef who left his native England to expand Dexter's menu.

"It's not the kind of place where everyone's sitting around doing this," Richardson says, swirling the wine in his glass. "The wine is just part of a good evening. It's not to be raised above the friendship or the food. It's just a part of the puzzle."

When Mann brought his recipe repertoire to the table, the puzzle was complete. Mann's specialties involve a wide range of flavors: Dexter's Chicken Tortilla Pie (crispy fried flour tortillas stacked like shortcakes and layered with chicken, tomato, jalapenos and provolone, then topped with sour cream); Veggie Peanut Pasta (made with teriyaki sauce, orange juice, garlic, fresh vegetables, scallions, peanut butter and extra, extra al dente linguine); and Garlic Buccatini with Fresh Pesto (pasta laced with garlic and mixed with basil, Romano cheese, pine nuts, olive oil and a not-too-heavy herb cream sauce. For an extra flavor kick, add the Cajun chicken).

Mann's other masterpieces, which are splashed throughout the menu's body of work, include Grilled Medallions of Pork Tenderloin with Andouille Sausage (complete with mashed purple-yes, purple-Peruvian potatoes) and Caramelized Onion Quesadillas, which recently appeared on the ever-changing cafe menu at the Thornton Park location. If they prove to be popular, they'll "graduate," as Mann puts it, to permanent status on the main menu.

Though Dexter's chrome-and-black vinyl stools and tiled floors give the restaurant a casual cafe feel, Mann's classic training is evident from the very first bite. But "culinary speaking," he says, "we're wild."

Regulars fill nearly every table as Richardson and Mann try to make an occasional pass-through among the patrons. It's the neighborhood togetherness that the duo thrives upon. Although they may have become accustomed to the familiar greetings from diners, they never take the recognition for granted-nor do they let the unsolicited praise, which pours forth like vine from a carafe, go to their heads. Richardson and Mann continue to perfect their goal, to create gastronomic works of art worthy of review. Too bad the Winter Park Sidewalk Art Festival judging committee doesn't have a food category.